Nowadays in apparel industry it is very important to use a perfect sewing stitch
or at least well done.
This stitch is achieved through experience together with correct hire and
needle.
The right choice of needle cloth thread and good maintenance of the sewing
machines makes the quality of the sewing.
Relation THREAD/NEEDLE
|
|
Number of the Needle |
Label |
American System |
Metric System |
25 |
21/22 |
130/140 |
20/3 |
19/22 |
120/140 |
36 |
18/22 |
110/130 |
30/3 |
16/19 |
100/120 |
40/3 |
12/16 |
80/120 |
80 |
12/16 |
80/120 |
75 |
12/16 |
80/120 |
50/3 |
12/14 |
80/120 |
100 |
12/14 |
80/90 |
120 |
09/14 |
65/90 |
Note:
It´s important to adequate the needle to the thread
thickness.
Thiner Needles reduce thread damages and friction. |
|
Relation FABRIC/NEEDLE
|
|
Number of the Needle |
FABRIC |
American System |
Metric System |
very light |
08/09 |
60/65 |
light |
10/11 |
70/75 |
medium |
12/14 |
80/90 |
medium/heavy
between 340 and 550g/m2 |
16 |
100 |
heavy
More than 440 g/m² |
18/19 |
110/120 |
|
Suggestions:
-
Change your
needle whenever you begin a new order
-
Verification
of needle advice in the sewing machine book
-
It's
important a correct relationship between needle number and thread number
-
The medium
time of needle life is 10 or 12 hours
-
Needles with
crooked points or warped needles can damage the cloth and the sewing machine
-
The sewing
machine strain always refined. Strains too tight cause wrinkled sewing
-
Keep the
bobbin of your machine always clean.
-
Always make a
sample before beginning any work and so verify the stitch refinement
|